Ariston

By Eleanor Mcculloch

Just past the more than 400-year-old olive press, fresh roses abound, set up in arrangements all around North Beach’s Ariston Greek restaurant. The bright pink and white petals contrast the characteristic blue details so commonly associated with the Greek Isles — the calming, cheery features create an escape from the city streets.

Tent-like rafter adornments and ceiling fans, coupled with frescos and unobtrusive Mediterranean music come together in a welcoming dining atmosphere. There would be no belly dancers or smashing dishes here (at least not on a weeknight).

Instead the western view of the setting sun casts a tranquil pink and orange glow about crisp linens. The colors fill the dining room, filtering through small cobalt vases via a single rose being distributed to each table.
Amid the recommendations of expert server John, the mood is quiet, alluring — laid back and interestingly romantic. An incidental homage to the diverse North Beach neighborhood that Ariston calls home, the traditional Greek beverage of ouzo is forsaken for the cool dark Warsteiner Dunkel on tap.

Perhaps not a perfect pairing to the meal about to be consumed, but it’s good.

Off the beaten track of the hustling South Beach strips, and stepping into the footprint left behind by the location’s Greek predecessor Ouzo’s, Ariston is poised to become a new favorite destination spot for Mediterranean food lovers from the four corners of South Florida. The very first reason: the quality for the value might just be beyond reproach.

(Food fashionistas turned recessionistas, rejoice.)

With more than 100 wine and Champagne choices on the menu ranging in price from $5 per glass to $160 per bottle, and with a $20 corkage fee service available, there is sure to be a pairing for any palate or pocketbook.
 When owner Thanasis Barlos opened Ariston (a Greek word which roughly translates to “excellence” or “best”) he hoped to bring good, affordable Greek food to South Florida locals.

Barlos honed his skills as a restaurateur in New York in the ’80s, and founded an Italian eatery in Athens called Boschetto, an establishment that enjoyed 17 years of success, including the honor of becoming the highest rated Michelin guide restaurant in Greece in the ’90s. He opened Ariston in 2008 with partner Michelle Shimon.

“When I opened Ariston, I hoped to create a destination for good Greek food,” Barlos said, adding that he based his dishes on his mother’s recipes, and added a little local accessibility. “Greek food can be a little bit exotic. The reception to Greek food in South Florida has been that you’re getting flaming cheese and breaking plates.”
Barlos does often delight diners with some traditional Greek entertainment, such as live music and belly dancing, and even has plans for a Latin music night, he said.

“I think Greek food has been misrepresented in the States,” Barlos said, adding that good Greek restaurants are too often hard to come by. “They’re spread out. Until 10 years ago everything was ‘My Big Fat Greek Wedding’ and gyros prepared in a New Jersey basement.”

With Ariston, Barlos seeks to change that, reinvigorating the traditional comfort food recipes of his mother’s generation while presenting them at affordable prices.

To this end, he tapped the talents of chef Alexia Apostolides, a successful culinary partnership that didn’t end when Apostolides returned to Greece. His shoes were filled by former Ouzo’s chef Ilyas Ortatepe. Hailing from Turkey, Ortapete has skillfully capitalized on the many similarities between Greek and Turkish cooking styles.

“He’s been adopted by the Greeks,” Barlos said with a smile. It’s a smile that seems at home here.

Lots of foodies can agree, with so many rich varieties of meats, minimal but intricate use of cheeses, exotic spices and flavors, there’s often no dining experience more, well, fun than Greek food.  At Ariston, it’s no less true. Although things might still begin traditionally with oil and olive tapinada, and a must-have pita platter of an eggplant spread, hummus, tarama, tzatziki, and olives, a local influence is woven into the experience.

The tarama is crafted with just enough fish, and just enough salt to conjure up refreshing memories of the Mediterranean Sea. The hummus is not a spicy one, and a touch of paprika brings out its richness.

One of the staff’s personal favorites, warm beets lightly drizzled with garlic infused olive oil and served with Jamaican callaloo greens, are topped with a crumbled sheep milk feta imported from Greece. 

Some favorites of regulars are the wood-burning oven slow-roasted suckling piglet, fresh char-grilled octopus — grilled and served in a salad preparation, and the banzino (Mediterranean sea bass) scaled and grilled whole with lemon, oregano and olive oil, and served with callaloo or wild greens — one of the various fresh whole fish dishes served every night. (Barlos personally selects the fish shipped in fresh at least three times per week.)

However, tonight the recommendation is the roast lamb, slow roasted and pulled from the bone, and served with quartered potatoes cooked in olive oil, herbs and lemon juice.

It’s a good recommendation.

It’s so tender it virtually falls apart on the plate, and priced very reasonably for a half portion, which is more than enough food, the dish satisfies.

But perhaps an even better recommendation is the Noni’s Eggplant Moussaka. And not just because it’s a classic signature dish. Layers of eggplant, ground beef and a red sauce that is neither too tangy nor too sweet, and a topping of creamy béchamel sauce combine to create a great comfort meal. (Don’t miss the baklava or the baked apple dessert.)

The menu boasts a slew of other classic Greek dishes, surely as good as the next. But it is perhaps the combination of experiences, and the value, at Ariston that earns the restaurant its name.

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